Monday, July 8, 2013

Hiking the Kektura: Nograd to Katalinpuszta (14km)

One of my many failings is my inability to cope with sudden changes in plans. It is odd that after nearly two years of backpacking, after moving blindly to other countries, that this would be something that still lurks inside of me. I'm getting better, but not without work.

This all begins with some rain in Germany. The rain drains into the Danube, collects some more water in Austria, and by the time it reaches Budapest, we are in the middle of the biggest flood since 1838. The significance of this to me, despite the hard work of many sandbagging volunteers and my flat far from the river, is that Margaret Island, sight of the IH annual picnic, was closed to the public. The plan was changed, the picnic was cancelled, but this is not the inspiration for my opening paragraph. Instead, we decided on the alternative idea of meeting at 6PM and visiting the Hungarian Craft Beer Festival, which I found more enticing than a picnic. This for me is an example of a positive plan change. I consulted my little book of hikes and found an perfect hike for my time-shortened day. I'd catch 9AM train to Nograd, hike the 14km, four hour hike to Katalinpuszta, then take a quick, 45 minute bus ride home: maximum total time, six hours. I'd even be able to get some accordion practice in. Well, Robert Burns has a saying on this, but I'm a bit rusty with my Scottish.

I actually thought I'd had luck on my side. Even though I rushed out the door with only cake for breakfast. Even though I missed my bus, I still managed to barely catch the train, which was also late. I had a relaxing ride all the Vac. I'd forgotten how nice trains were, especially when you don't need to spend 12 hours on them.

The train stopped in Vac and from my understanding of the MAV site, it would continue on into the Cserhat Hills, but it didn't, and after a few minutes of sitting on an empty train, I realised that I should probably get off. The site said the total trip would be an hour and fifteen minutes, so I asked a uniformed man in a blue striped hat where my connecting train was. He just wrote on my ticket 11:36. This was two hours later.

At first I was annoyed; this would mean that I wouldn't be getting to Nograd until the afternoon and therefore not home until five but I sucked it up and figured that since I'd been meaning to check out Vac anyway, this couldn't be too bad. And in the end, it was well worth my time. Despite the flood I could still see most of the cute churches that were on higher ground. Vac is a lovely river town north of Budapest, and with Szentenre, Visegrad, and Esztergom, one of the big four tourist sights for those that actually leave the city. It's a shame that so many zip through Europe, only stopping at the capital cities, missing the smaller ones, which give a much truer representation of a country. Not to say that Vac is a typical Hungarian village; it is is a tourist site for a reason. I still enjoyed wandering around the narrow streets, snapping pictures of the flood, marvelling at the church paintings. I avoided the trinket shops, had a cheesy hot dog, then continued on my journey.

The second train was tiny, only two cars and quickly filled, both seats and aisles, with teenagers; though it was easy to ignore because this was as pretty of a train ride as I've ever seen. The hills in this area were higher than the other places I've been in Hungary, towering on both sides as the train meandered up the valley. As the train climbed, I became more and more excited; I would soon be hiking these mountains. Finally after passing a few hillside villages and holiday settlements, the train came out into the rolling fields of Nograd.

The train arrived at 12:30 and immediately after I stepped out, I saw another obstacle to my plan. Much like the tops of high hills, castle ruins call to me, oblige me to run my fingers along the cracked mortar, imagine it at its height of their former glory. Now when you put a castle atop a high hill, you may as well tie me to the masts. I had no crew for this and so I had a lovely 50 minutes admiring the surrounding hills and the crumbled history.

I knew now I'd have to walk quickly to arrive back in town in time for the gathering, but for once, the village provided no confusing forks or unmarked turns, though I had already mentally mapped my course from atop the castle. Once I left town, however, the problems started. One of the trail markers was in the middle of a farmer's yard. It was still close enough to the road that I figured I should just continue. A bit further on, after finding no more blue stripes, I started searching around for alternative options, figuring that I was, in fact, wrong. I headed in the direction of the other route, towards the farm, traced it against my map, but it didn't seem right. I searched around until I finally found a glint of blue on a fencepost, behind some tall scrub, next to the road, so I decided that I wasn't wrong after all.

I was wrong.

The Kektura is not a static entity. Over the years, new farmers buy the land and choose to divert the trail to more convenient, less disruptive places, or creeks wash out trails, forests take over, and so the trail changes courses. Since trail markers are merely blue stripes painted on trees or fence posts or rocks, they tend to remain, long after the trail has become but a V-shaped impression in the ground.

I was lost, but I didn't know it. Fuelled by the stray mark, it was clear to me that the farmer who owned the land hadn't bothered to have more painted; there was only one obvious route anyway. But after a couple kilometres, my folly was clear. I was almost to the community of Berkenye, yet the trail was meant to veer south into the Cserhats. So I calculated the angle of intersection and pushed through the woods into the hills. This is usually a bad idea; one should always backtrack if possible and try to find the lost fork. I deemed this unnecessary.

Just before the Nograd, the railroad tracks loop east to Berkenye, then come back to hit Nograd, creating a finger-shaped cut out of the plain. I was within this finger, so if I walked until I hit the tracks, took a right and followed them for about two kilometres, I would find the place where the Kektura crosses the tracks. It was impossible to get lost.

Worry not. I just employed a writing technique called “False-foreshadowing”. My plan worked splendidly and I found the trail again, but lost another hour in the process as well as a ton of patience; the deliciously bitter taste of IPA was becoming more and more a fleeting hope.

I forced a smile to my face; I was in the forest, climbing the primary hill of the route. It twisted around the side of the hill and suddenly I had the most stunning view of the Börzsöny Mountains through the trees and once I reached the summit of Nagy-kő Hegy (Big stone Mountain), I stopped for a sandwich and my mood improved. The flood plain of the Danube looked more like a giant lake, flowing towards Budapest, than a river.

I wanted to savor this view as much as I could, so even though the trail went into the forest, I walked along the ridge for a bit longer. After a bit, there was a relaxing sun-shower, not enough to get me wet, but I put my camera away and pulled out my umbrella just in case. The sun-shower exploded into a storm in seconds. The dark clouds didn't blow in; the blue sky merely morphed from happy to angry. I kept going though, the umbrella and the trees combined were enough for a few minutes, but as the sky went from angry to furious, I considered finding shelter, though there was none. The rain was falling so hard, I could only barely see the trail markers; I definitely couldn't check my book. Finally, I had no choice but to find a large tree, crouch down, and try to stay as dry as I could through the pummelling downpour for the next 20 minutes. I was lucky. Much of the country saw hail. When it let up a bit, I continued along the trail, which would soon become future highway. I took a look at the book when the rain was only a trickle, and I saw that I had passed the stamping point, which was off the trail a bit.

The highway was as boring as purgatory, ugly even, as they'd bulldozed most of the surrounding forest to make it. The most remarkable thing about it was how such an unremarkably dull trail could be carved through such a beautiful place. I passed the time composing the speech in pidgin Hungarian that I'd need to explain my missed stamp (Sok eső! Sok eső . Nem lehet latni. Nem lehet stampozom!) In the process, I missed my turn.

Of course I noticed that the marks had stopped, but I ceased to care. I was four hours behind schedule, lost, but I was on a road, and all roads lead somewhere. This one led to the outskirts of suburban sprawl. The forest was being beat back and the model houses were taking their place. How can anybody want to live in this, much less see it as an ideal? American TV is polluting the world into believing that we all need to get our own soulless, uncharacteristic chunk of former nature as some way to carve our piece of the world, tricking us into thinking that the ugliest thing in the whole universe is desirable, acceptable, even beautiful. That this type of life could be heaven is the biggest middle-finger capitalism has shown us, because if you actually read some Dante, you'll find his descriptions of hell to be suspiciously familiar. I'm not a religious man, but I do deem there to be a hell and we're all moving there quickly, far too quickly through our evil acts of destruction. Paving the last bits of heaven until we live in a barren land of five-bedroom, three-bath torture. Forever lost in cul-de-sac, as I currently am in the story.

I didn't even know what village I was in, but I had a guess. It all seemed deserted. I would think that maybe I had wondered completely off the map, died in the storm, struck by lightning, forced to reform my socialist thinking in this horrible place. I couldn't decide if the sound of lawnmowers, chainsaws, and four-wheelers confirmed or negated my fears. I called Michelle, which confirmed I wasn't dead, just lost. I was familiar enough with hilly country to know that main highways usually follow the deepest lines of valleys, like man-made rivers, so I walked downhill, hoping to meet a person or a bus stop. Finally, my near-random wandering led me to a man who was tying his four-wheeler to the back of his car. He spoke English. I was in Szendehely, the next village up from my destination, meaning I'd missed another stamp for my book, basically making this whole day naught, at least as far as the Hungarian Friends of Nature were concerned. At least I was right in my reasoning and the bus stop was next to the highway which did go along the floor of the valley.


I'd only just missed the previous bus, so I had to wait another hour. This meant that I'd be getting home around 8PM. I would miss meeting my fellow teachers at the festival. Across the street was a convenience store and I bought one of the many light lagers they sell here, I can't remember which one. I sat at the bus stop and watched the rain, wishing there was craft beer in my can. But for a moment, the clouds lifted, but the rain continued. The sky sparkled before the mountains in the distance and it seemed as if the whole countryside was made of diamonds. I don't know why I'd gotten so worked up about a derailed plan. Not many people get to just leave their home one morning, tour a beautiful city, wander around cathedrals and 200 year old churches, climb mountains and explore castle ruins, all in one day, even if all I really wanted to do was walk in the forest for four hours, then meet some friends for an IPA. Besides, the festival didn't end until midnight anyway.

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