In 2006, the amazing Qinghai to Tibet railway opened, linking mainland China to Lhasa. Though controversial, the railway stands as one of the greatest engineering marvels of all time.
Most of its 2000km from Xining to Lhasa are over 4000m elevation, even topping 5000m at points, making it the highest railroad in the world. It goes so high, oxygen is pumped into the cabins to prevent altitude sickness for the passengers. Most of the railway is built upon permafrost and swamp. Some of the bridges have supports going up to a mile underground! To keep the ground frozen enough in the summer to support the weight of the trains, cooling pipes are laid along the tracks.
Despite the bragging rights China gets for building such a project, it has not been met with universal acclaim. The railroad is a stake into the heart of those hoping for Tibetan independence. Though the railroad will boost economic growth and tourism in Tibet and lower costs for many goods, it also boosts Han immigration to the already China-fying plateau. The train is also an eyesore against some of the most amazing scenery in the world.
This makes it a great train ride however! I attempted to get some good reading and writing time, but I found myself glued to the window. When I woke up that first morning after my sleep on the train, we were passing over a giant wetland, surrounded by the Kundun Mountains. The sunrise illuminated the water, making the ground glow. At times, we passed snow capped mountains with sand dunes at the base. Most of the trip was desolate tundra with elk, wild donkeys, and yaks grazing. Sadly, the view was marred by the parallel highway and power lines. it was still an incredible ride, one of those train rides where the journey is the destination.
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