Day 7: Manang to Khangsar 5km (95km total)

Instead of acclimatizing in the expensive and crowded Manang, we hiked for an hour and a half, 200m higher to Khangsar. The higher elevation would help us better cope with the altitude and we'd be closer to Tilicho Tal.

We left at 7:30 after a bowl of porridge and started our leisurely stroll up to Khangsar. After a short climb, we stopped.

"We can stop now, today we walk slow; we only go there." He pointed to a village at the same height, just in the distance. Today will be a flat walk.

I was wrong. We then climbed up the hill, around the river, then dipped down to a bridge. The whole rest of the way was up.

"I thought today would be a flat day."

"Oh no my friend, everyday in high will be a climb. We walk slow."

Even our slow walking was closed to my typical fast pace. We arrived by 9:45.

Khangsar was as quiet as advertised and even more beautiful than Manang. Since I had some company, the place was perfect. I had a whole day to sit on the guest house's sunny, wind-sheltered terrace and write.

The woman running the tiny guest house was warm and inviting. Shew as the nicest host I'd had yet.

"The woman running the guest house is very kind." I remarked, starting at the 7000m peak before me.

"This is why I stay here." Himalaya said, also admiring the view. "The hotel is not so nice, but didi is a great woman. And it is quiet, and good view huh?"

"Do you think she would mind if I help her cook tonight?"

"She work by herself everyday. She would love help."

So, I spent the rest of the day in the kitchen, which was warm and hung out with the Nepali guides and porters. The host did allow me to help a little, merely chopping some vegetables and peeling potatoes. She obviously had a system and though she was compliant to the help, as well as appreciative, she was the woman of that kitchen.

Himalaya brought some homemade millet wine, called raksi, from a bar in the village. It was his magic elixir; he drank a couple of glasses each night. I tried a glass, served warm and it was quite good. It went down smooth, like a slightly bitter water, but it warmed my insides on the cold night upon the mountain.