Tiger Leaping Gorge

Tiger Leaping Gorge is the famous hike of China, and rightfully so. It follow the Yangse for 15 miles, high on the cliffs of Haba Shan, in the shadow of Yuelong Xueshan, a craggy mass. I expected the hike to be packed, but it wasn't at all. Which is strange, since everywhere in the province was bursting with people and the gorge was the best thing I saw in all of Yunnan.

We started with a quick breakfast at a guesthouse in Quiotou and headed on our way. The walls of the restaurant were scattered with both stories of the hike's greatness and stories of being hopelessly lost on the trail. The latter stories seemed odd, given the trail's popularity, traffic, and clearly marked signs. Some just aren't meant to hike.

It was a bit strenuous; my Nepal days were definitely long behind me, but it really wasn't too bad. The main test was the 28 bends, a series of switchbacks a bit before the halfway point. After this, the trail was mostly downhill. I spend the night at the Midway Guesthouse, home of one of the world's most scenic toilets. Starring right at the cliffs of Yulong Xueshan across the river, the urinal gave the impression of pissing thousands of feet right into the Yangse below.


The second day was even more intense. I left the main trail and descended deep into the gorge, right to the riverbank. The rapids were beautiful and intense, crashing along the narrow walls of the cliffs, flowing down quickly, with the type of speed expected to carve such a narrow canyon. Many tourists were scrambling down to see the Tiger Leaping Stone. From this point, according to a legend, a tiger, escaping a hunter leaped across the gorge to safety, hence the name. I was happy for the high given by such magnificent scenery, because the trail went straight up the cliff, in a dizzying gut-buster, featuring a 100ft ladder up an open cliff face.

From the top, the trail continues further, but apparently the scenery is not so great (comparatively). Therefore, I caught a bus back to Lijang and brought my hike to a close.