Farewell India

It was more economically viable for me to take a train across the length of India to fly from Kolkata to Thailand, than to fly directly from Delhi, which was fine by me; I much prefer Kolkata.

I bid farewell to the group, planning to meet Daan in Bangkok and boarded my 35 hour train after a short tour of the Haridwar Ghats. There was a point in my life when seven hours of any form of travel was excruciating, but after Australia and this trip, anything less than twelve hours registers no dread. I actually hoped the train would take longer than the 32 hour scheduled; it was to arrive at 2AM, four hour delay would put me in Kolkata at sunrise. As common with the unreliable Indian train system, I got my wish.

Most of the hotels on Shudder street were booked out with my arrival, but a room opened up at the 10 o'clock checkout. I had no real plans to see anything. I only needed to spend less that 500 rupees and eat some Kolkata egg rolls. This was not too hard: most egg rolls will cost around 20 rupees. I managed to eat three, one double egg, double chicken, one with paneer and chicken, and one on classic egg roll. Strange that with the delectable quantities of Bengali food around me, right at its delicious source, I chose to eat the most common of street food for my last meals in India.

In my hotel I met a man Julien who had the same flight, so we shared a taxi to the airport and boarded my first flight since my arrival in Beijing.

Though Nepal and India were both markably different, they were similar enough that I needed a complete change. I'd been in an Hindu society for nearly four months and I did not even know what to expect once I landed in Thailand. I was sad to be leaving, but also relieved. India was tough, though there hasn't been an easy country. Even the simple lifestyle of trekking in Nepal involved intense physical work, but India really tested a person emotionally. Indians are quick to perceive the weaknesses and strengths of people and they use this intuition to challenge. I learned to hate a persons actions, even if I liked the person. I'd had a great time with those who'd ripped me off. The easiest way to keep many Indians from bothering you is to make a joke. We'd developed a method of defusing beggars by begging from them first; you quickly learn to identify them.

I'd learned to embrace enough of the culture as I could. I ate with my right hand; it is amazing how much more sense Indian food made when eating it properly. The tastiest ratios of sauce to rice was the point where it became just right for picking up. I also used my left hand for...I stopped buying toilet paper. I tried paan, smoked beedies, tried every sweet I could. India is a hard country to crack, but there were ways to have simple connections, mostly chai and beedies.

I was befuddled by the eccentricities of the people. How holy temples show explicit images of many uncommon sex practices, yet husbands and wives may never see each other naked. People will shower with their clothes on, yet not think twice of defecating right on the sidewalk with others around. Being able to have instant love for a person, complete devotion to help, yet at the same time, able to lie with a straight face about anything. It was a land where begging isn't desperation, it's a profession that people train to do. Dirt floor homes will be immaculate while the streets are trashed. Discrimination is so open it is not worth thought.

It is easy to understand why people either love or hate India; it is a polarizing place: it's a polar place. I can't decide where I fall. I liked India quite a bit, but I wouldn't say I loved it. There were moments when I wanted to just leave, but I wouldn't say I hated it. It did change me somehow, and maybe not in a good way. At first I was so shocked by human suffering, but now, it doesn't really touch me anymore. I used to openly talk to anyone who seemed friendly, but in India I learned to close myself in. It is such an oppressive place in so many ways, but it makes you stronger. I've heard many say they hated India and would never want to go back, but nobody has ever wished they'd never gone.