Sikkim

For years, I fathomed seeing Sikkim, the tiny mythical Indian state my old friend Steve visited while in High School on a mission trip. I never really heard much about the state, except of chicken lollipops and the childrens' love of hackey-sack. Instead, I heard more interesting stories of his mission work and people he met. Either way, he was the first friend I'd had who ever visited a real exotic place.

As I learned more about the place, it became evident that this was a place I really wanted to see. It was an independent mountain nation, once a part of Nepal, now a part of India since 1975. The people there are similar to Nepalis, with a strong Tibetan influence. Though a part of India, the people still have the sense like they are still their own nation. It is among the richer of the Indian states, muchly from the special concessions after joining the nation. The government is strong, enforcing strict, western inspired rules. Littering is not so common, since the police crack down on it. Smoking is banned statewide, but all stores sell cigarettes and most of the citizens discreetly smoke in not so public places. If a cop chooses to enforce it, you can be fined. It was quite nice not to see butts and garbage filled streets. It is a beautiful state, so it is nice to see the laws trying to preserve it. The people are relaxed and friendly; it was refreshing to not be hassled so much.

I joined Doug, Justin, and a few others in a jeep to Gangtok, the capital. We all shared a seven bed room for a couple nights before parting ways. Gangtok was a nice, surprisingly modern city, though there wasn't much to do. We mostly stayed at Aurthur's, a cool restaurant that allowed us to plug in our mp3 players and jam out.

I visited the Rumtek monastery, head of the Black Hat sect and home of the 17th Karmapa, Ogyen Trinley Darje, not that he's ever been there himself. There are actually two who claim the title, but Ogyen Trinley Darje was chosen by the Dalai Lama. He can't ever enter Sikkim because the Indian government fears he'll upset the Chinese by being so close to Tibet. He's the second most powerful spiritual leader in the Buddhist faith, so things surrounding him are a bit sensitive.

Doug and I continued to the west of Sikkim to the village of Pelling, known for its magical view of Kanchenjunga. I never really saw it myself in my three day visit. Pelling was once the capital of the Sikkimese kingdom, so tourists can visit the ruins of the old palace. Not far from the palace is the Pemayangtse Monastery, which was wonderful since they allowed visitors onto the upper floors of the temple, where there was some curious art depicting sex between Padmasambhava and women. This is not meant to be erotic, it is meant to show the balance by the unity of masculine and feminine. There was also a beautiful work of art called the Zandog Palri, heaven for Padmasambhava. It was a hand-carved pagoda palace, beautifully painted and ornate, easily one of the most incredible sculptures I've ever seen.

Next door was the Elgin Hotel, a heritage inn whose managers, a delightful Australian/Indian couple, invited us for tea when we'd met them in town the day before. I felt out of place, sipping a cappuccino in my grungy, sweaty clothes and terrible beard, but the couple were excellent hosts, giving us all a tour of the place. The people in Sikkim never failed to to impress me with their kindness.

On my last day in Sikkim, we took a day tour around Pelling, visiting Yuksom, where the nation of Sikkim was born. We also visited the lovely Tashiding Monastery. Just when I felt as if I was completely monasteried out, a place like Tashingding grips me. There was a forest of chortens, stupas, and prayer flags that were simply stunning. The highlight of my visit was seeing what seemed like the whole village, women, children, monks, even dogs, working to clean, paint and beautify the great monastery for the Dalai Lama's visit two day later. I considered sticking around for a chance to see the great man, but I figured that it would be a circus. Plus, since i'm not Buddhist, it would just be celebrity spotting, which I feel is not respectful towards such a holy figure. Our final stop was Khecheopalri, a peaceful holy lake that had a wonderful vibe.

I enjoyed my short stay, though I saw little. I barely missed on a chance to head North with Justin (the jeep was full) and so it goes. Though lovely, the highlight of Sikkim for me was the people. Everywhere I went, I was greeted with smiles, some conversations, and even some uncomfortable man-love at a karaoke bar. Much like Steve, my memories will be dominated with not places I saw, but stories of people, children playing hackey-sack and even chicken lollipops, which were as delicious as promised.