Continuing down the West Coast

The West Coast of the South Island is famous for three things, the pancake rocks, the mountain views along the ocean, and its two glaciers, the Franz-Josef and Fox. The day I had to see both were very rainy. The Southern Alps were just clouds. I pulled into Franz-Josef village, but I couldn't see the glacier. I was disappointed, but I drove to the park anyway; I had a whole day to kill after all. After hiking for twenty minutes though, the rain stopped and the clouds broke, revealing the glacier in all of its glory. I hiked to the terminal face and was about to get about 5o meters away. It was incredible to get that close the glacier. Now, I know what some of you are thinking, "Hey Aaron, you were inside of glacier in 1997 in the actual alps." Yes, I fully realize this, but that was my childhood and it is getting increasingly hazy. I'm going to cling to these new memories instead.

The Fox Glacier, though typically more spectacular, was a bit disappointing. The rain picked up again and recent icefalls and falling boulders kept the trail to the terminal face closed. They were worried about people dying in the dangerous conditions! Pish posh, let us risk our lives if we want New Zealand Department of Conservation! I heeded the warnings and took an alternate hike around the area.

What makes these two glaciers unique is their proximity to the ocean. Nowhere on Earth can you see a glacier making its way through a rainforest. It really is a special sight to see a glacier surrounded by ferns.

Further down the coast, near Haast, one of my stopping points, I took an hour walk through a rainforest to the secluded Monro Beach for a chance to see the Fiordland Crested Penguin. Sadly, I did not get a glimpse of these shy, cute birds, but I did however watch an incredible sunset over the Tasman Sea. I was so sucked into the sunset, I completely forgot that sunsets are often (always in fact) followed by darkness and I had to walk back one hour through the rainforest in the dark. I'm so glad I had the foresight to bring a torch. Thank you boy scouts for teaching me to always be prepared.

The next morning, I headed to Jackson Bay, the southern end of the west coast highway. On the way is an area of iron ore tinted red mountains. The lookout was 15km down a rural dirt road through a bunch of farmland. It skirted a river valley with the alps towering above. The red hills were actually a bit disappointing, but the drive there was fantastic.

Jackson Bay had some amazing views of the mountains towering the sleepy fishing village. It was well worth detour.